Thursday, January 12, 2012

Personal Tethers / Personal Anchor Systems

I've been using the Metolius PAS for the last few years, and even though it has served me well, it's starting to look a little frayed. In my search for a replacement tether system, I wanted to find something that could absorb a dynamic fall. While this is not the intended use of a personal tether, I've seen too many climbers leave slack in the PAS, sometimes even positioning themselves above the anchor (yikes!), risking a factor 1-2 fall onto the anchor. Obviously, there are ways to mitigate this risk. I always use the climbing rope clove-hitched to the power point as my main tether, with the PAS as a back-up. However, I was curious if a design exists that can take human error out of the equation. Here are a few options I looked at:

Sterling Chain Reactors - Similar to the PAS design but made with nylon. Apparently this can take 3 factor 2 falls.

Purcell Prusiks - You can build your own Purcell Prusik. How well it can take a dynamic fall will obviously depend on the material. I might try one using 6mm Mammut Pro Cord.

Beal Dynaconnexion - I was about to cut a section out of my old rope to create a dynamic personal tether when I came across this product. 15 factor 2 falls! Just ordered one. We'll see how it performs in the field.

1 comment:

  1. I like my Sterling Chain Reactors for rapping, and for anchors I try to only use the climbing rope.